Closed Cell vs. Open Cell Foam

There are many different types of Spray Foams available in the marketplace that you will find on during a home inspection.  You will hear terms like open cell (½ lb) and closed cell (2 lb) foam.  We will discuss these terms to give you a better understanding as a home inspector on what to look for in each type.

In a closed-cell foam, the gas forms discrete pockets, each completely surrounded by the solid material. In an open-cell foam, the gas pockets connect with each other.  An example of open-cell foam is a bath sponge.

Open-cell or ½ lb foams have an R-value of about 3.7 per inch and require a vapor retarder as dictated by local building codes and climate.  Open-cell foams are easily identified by their soft spongy surface.  Closed-cell or 2 lb foams have an R-value in the mid 6 per inch and generally do not require a vapor retarder.  Closed-cell foams typically have a hard “crust” on their surface.

There are also many “Green” types of foam on the market, soy foam, corn foam, sugar foam, etc.  They make it seem as though the product is completely Green.  In real life the Green component is about 5-8% of the Component B while all of them still have the nasty petroleum based Component A, MDI (methylene diphenyl diisocyanate).

Open-cell is less durable and must be used inside only.  Closed-cell is more durable, has a greater R-value per inch, and adds structural rigidity in most applications.  In either case when used in wall and ceiling cavities virtually all applications must be covered with ½ inch drywall or an intumescent coating as a thermal / ignition barrier.  When used in an attic application (vented or unvented) many closed-cell products can be left uncovered.

With all of the differences and benefits of closed-cell foam you can imagine that it costs more than open-cell foam and it generally does.

One common application currently being used is “flash and batt” which involves spraying about 1-2 inches of foam on the walls (backside of sheathing) then insulating with standard fiberglass batts.  There is a potential problem with this procedure in cold climates with too thin of foam.  Condensation may form in the wall cavity on the surface of the foam since the warm humid air within the home will move right through the fiberglass until it meets the cool surface of the foam.  Be sure to check manufacturer’s recommendations for proper installation.

Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters = Lifesavers

The AFCI breaker performs a different job entirely from GFIs, Ground Fault Interrupter (GFCI) breakers and outlets. A GFI protects a home inspector from becoming part of the circuit and getting a shock. The AFCI breaker protects you and your house from a fire.
According to the U.S.F.A ,during a typical year, home electrical problems account for 26,100 fires and $1 billion in property losses. About half of all residential electrical fires involve electrical wiring.
Arc fault circuit interrupters (AFCIs) involve a technology that detects arcing-faults in electrical circuits that could cause fires. By recognizing characteristics unique to arcing and functioning to de-energize the circuit when an arc-fault is detected, AFCIs further reduce the risk of fire beyond the scope of conventional fuses and circuit breakers.
Conventional circuit breakers only respond to overloads and short circuits; so they do not protect against arcing conditions that produce erratic, and often reduced current. An AFCI is selective so that normal arcs do not cause it to trip. The AFCI circuitry continuously monitors the current and discriminates between normal and unwanted arcing conditions. Once an unwanted arcing condition is detected, the AFCI opens its internal contacts, thus de-energizing the circuit and reducing the potential for a fire to occur. An AFCI should not trip during normal arcing conditions, which can occur when a switch is opened or a plug is pulled from a receptacle.
 

Home & Real Estate Industry Trends: Homes Selling More Quickly

A new measure shows the typical amount of time it takes to sell a home is shrinking, and for traditional sellers is now in the range of historic norms for a balanced market, well below the cyclical peak reached in 2009, according to the National Association of Realtors®.
The median time a home was listed for sale on the market¹ was 69 days in July, down 29.6 percent from 98 days in July 2011. The median reflects a wide spectrum; one-third of homes purchased in July were on the market for less than a month, while one in five was on the market for at least six months.
Lawrence Yun, NAR chief economist, said there is a clear relationship between inventory supply and time on market. “As inventory has tightened homes have been selling more quickly,” he said. “A notable shortening of time on market began this spring, and this has created a general balance between home buyers and sellers in much of the country. This equilibrium is supporting sustained price growth, and homes that are correctly priced tend to sell quickly, while those that aren’t often languish on the market.”
At the end July there was a 6.4-month supply of homes on the market at the current sales pace, which is 31.2 percent below a year ago when there was a 9.3-month supply.
There are consistent and related findings between annual consumer research in NAR’s Profile of Home Buyers and Sellers, and sets of data in the existing-home sales series, that show current market conditions are comparable with median selling time in balanced markets.
In periods where the existing-home sales series averaged close to a 6-month supply of homes in listed inventory, which is near the low end for market equilibrium, the home buyer and seller series showed a median selling time of just over six weeks.

Answering Those Questions Pt. 2

Here are some more answers to the questions I receive, being a home inspector.

Q. CAN A HOUSE FAIL INSPECTION?
No. A professional home inspection is an examination of the current condition of your prospective home. It is not an appraisal, which determines market value, or a municipal inspection, which verifies local code compliance. A home inspector, therefore, will not pass or fail a house, but rather describe its physical condition and indicate what may need repair or replacement.
Q. WHEN DO I CALL IN THE HOME INSPECTOR?
A home inspector is typically contacted right after the contract or purchase agreement has been signed, and is often available within a few days. However, before you sign, be sure that there is an inspection clause in the contract, making your purchase obligation contingent upon the findings of a professional home inspection. This clause should specify the terms to which both the buyer and seller are obligated.
Q. DO I HAVE TO BE THERE?
It is not necessary for you to be present for the inspection. You will be able to observe the inspector and ask questions directly, as you learn about the condition of the home, how its systems work, and how to maintain it. You will also find the written report easier to understand if you've seen the property first-hand through the inspector's eyes.
Q. WHAT IF THE REPORT REVEALS PROBLEMS?
No house is perfect. If the inspector identifies problems, it doesn't necessarily mean you shouldn't buy the house, only that you will know in advance what to expect. A seller may adjust the purchase price or contract terms if major problems are found. If your budget is tight, or if you don't wish to become involved in future repair work, this information will be extremely important to you.
Q. IF THE HOUSE PROVES TO BE IN GOOD CONDITION, DID I REALLY NEED AN INSPECTION?
Definitely, now you can complete your home purchase with your eyes open as to the condition of the property and all its equipment and systems. You will also have learned many things about your new home from the inspector's written report, and will want to keep that information for future reference.

Answering Those Questions

As a home inspector, I get a lot of questions regarding the process. So I;ve decided to spend the first few posts answering these questions. I want everyone to have a base understanding of what I do and how I do it. So lets get things rolling.

Q. WHAT IS A "HOME INSPECTION"?

A home inspection is an objective visual examination of the physical structure and systems of a home, from the roof to the foundation. Having a home inspected is like giving it a physical check-up. If problems or symptoms are found, the inspector may recommend further evaluation.

Q. WHAT DOES IT INCLUDE?

My inspection report will review the condition of the home's heating system, central air conditioning system (temperature permitting), interior plumbing and electrical systems; the roof, attic, and visible insulation; walls, ceilings, floors, windows and doors; the foundation, basement, and visible structure.

Q. WHY DO I NEED A HOME INSPECTION?

The purchase of a home is probably the largest single investment you will ever make. You should learn as much as you can about the condition of the property and the need for any major repairs before you buy, so that you can minimize unpleasant surprises and difficulties afterwards.

Of course, a home inspection also points out the positive aspects of a home, as well as the maintenance that will be necessary to keep it in good shape. After the inspection, you will have a much clearer understanding of the property you are about to purchase.

If you are already a home owner, a home inspection may be used to identify problems in the making and to learn preventive measures which might avoid costly future repairs. If you are planning to sell your home, you may wish to have an inspection prior to placing your home on the market. This will give you a better understanding of conditions which may be discovered by the buyer's inspector, and an opportunity to make repairs that will put the house in better selling condition.

Q. WHAT WILL IT COST?

The inspection fee for a typical one-family house varies upon the size of the residence, as does the cost of housing. Similarly the inspection fee may vary depending upon particular features of the house and/or out buildings.

However, do not let cost be a factor in deciding whether or not to have a home inspection, or in the selection of your home inspector. The knowledge gained from an inspection is well worth the cost, and the lowest-priced inspector is not necessarily a bargain. The inspector's qualifications, including his experience, training, and professional affiliations, should be the most important consideration.

Q. CAN I DO IT MYSELF?

Even the most experienced home owner lacks the knowledge and expertise of a professional home inspector who has inspected hundreds, perhaps thousands, of homes in his or her career. An inspector is familiar with the many elements of home construction, their proper installation, and maintenance. He or she understands how the home's systems and components are intended to function together, as well as how and why they fail.

Above all, most buyers find it very difficult to remain completely objective and unemotional about the house they really want, and this may affect their judgment. For the most accurate information, it is best to obtain an impartial third-party opinion by an expert in the field of home inspection.
Keep an eye out in a day or two for more questions answered!

Welcome

Heartland Home Inspections provides home inspections in Southern Illinois, we understand that your home is your most important purchase you'll ever make. We aim to provide all of our clients with the highest level of experience and professional service as possible. Making us your #1 choice when choosing a home inspector.
Our philosophy is to inspect each home with the utmost care, to be thorough, and to explain our findings clearly to each client. We are licensed and insured home inspectors, with many years of experience in countruction and inspecting.
Whether you need a pre-purchase, pre-list, or general home inspection, a Heartland Home Inspection inspector is available to discuss how our services can meet your needs. Our impartial and experienced inspectors can help you make an educated real estate investment.